Gold from the South-West: Château Les Tours des Verdots Monbazillac 2005
« Pepper, muscat, honey, a touch of banana and candied oranges and peach preserves. Great finesse and balance - powerful, bold and fresh, but never excessively so. All that, right up to a finish where the wine lands on a suggestion of acid drops and some wood. And right at the end you could even imagine the wine was dry - a real tease! »
Journal L’Echo – February 2009
Gambades à Monbazillac: Les Verdots selon David Fourtout Monbazillac 2001
« “An exceptional wine (miniscule production) only made because of David Fourtout’s passion. He owns a single Hectare of fine chalky-clay in Colombier. The trade mark of the best Monbazillac, the robe is already showing seductive coppery flashes. This wine is light years away from the monolithically ungainly Monbazillacs of the past, and from which consumers rightly turned away. Intense and smooth right from the attack, it shows a perfect balance between vivacity and concentration. Subtle, with flavours of candied orange in harmony with straightforward minerality - a guarantee of finesse. The finish is all delicacy. Amazing! Mark: 18.5/20" »
Revue Thuriès : March 2009
The Ragueneau Culinary Prize:
Les Verdots selon David Fourtout Bergerac Sec 2006
Le Journal du Périgord – Rubrique Feuille de Vigne - Mars 2009 The Ragueneau Culinary Prize:
Les Verdots selon David Fourtout Bergerac Sec 2006
Sincerity and Typicity rewarded by a prize
When on Monday, January 19, 2009 the Sarlat and Bergerac regions joined together for the second edition of the award Ragueneau, it was to better serve St Alvère truffles and Bergerac wines. Here is the gist of the competition.
A busy timetable for the five finalist teams, each consisting of a chef and a sommelier. The competition rules were to produce:- an appetizer made from Perigord foie gras (of guaranteed provenance) truffle whose cost for 10 servings should not exceed 20 €. This was to be followed by a plated up dish whose main ingredient was sturgeon and which had to have two accompaniments, a sauce and truffles all for 150 € (the cost of the truffle not included, which goes without saying ...).
As for the wines, two wines had to be chosen from amongst the range of the 13 Bergerac AOCs. The trial took place at the Jean Capelle Hotel school in Bergerac, whose chefs and sommeliers were ex officio members of the jury.
Three hours were allowed for the practical test, during which the sommelier practiced time and time again his explanations of the two wines that were to accompany the dishes before presenting them to be tasted.
The winners
Thus the jury - chaired by Michel Portos, chef at the restaurant Bouliac St. James (33) Career and Guy head sommelier at Le Grand Ecuyer in Cordes-sur-Ciel (81) - unanimously awarded the 1st prize, with € 3,000 to the team of L'Olson: Patricia Marty (assistant chef) and Damien Authier (sommelier). The pair, who entered the competition prepared the following dishes:- a “cappuccino” - an emulsion of foie gras, jerusalem artichoke and truffle emulsion, matched with "Conti-ne Perigordine" from Chateau Tour des Gendres Bergerac sec 2005 followed by sturgeon in a cepe and truffle crust, with a truffled celeriac mash and buttered savoy cabbage sublimated by the "Grand Vin des Verdots" Bergerac Dry 2006. Panache and verve from these contestants, who were participating for the very first time.
They share some thoughts from their professonal universes, while talking about the Ragueneau prize. First, they welcomed "the quality of the organization” referred to “the difficulty of participating in a competition and excellence of the jury and nobility of the products”. At first each considered what they would submit to the competition on their own, but subsequently they worked together for a week to hone the match.
Patricia Marty’s cooking is tasty and without bluster. Just like her! Every word reveals the epicurean and especially her sincerity. She admits to having been "very nervous when the results were announced. This very serious contest did me a lot of good professionally.” She said of her dishes, as they left for the jury’s table "there was discussion in the plate." That says it all! She always wanted to do this job, working with top quality products and learning alongside the best. Speaking of Bernard Loiseau, she loved "his furious enthusiasm." What she likes best about her job, "you’re working with your hands". That sums it up neatly.
As for Damien Authier, a sommelier for a dozen years, he made the choice of wine “in a militant spirit. I selected two exceptional winemakers:- a poet and a top technical craftsman, both organic winemakers” and adding “two wines that no one else had chosen, including one that is not commercialised. The vintage "Conti-ne Périgourdine" Chateau Tour des Gendres 2005 is 100% Muscadelle petit grain, a historical variety of the Perigord. There were so many to choose from. This broad dry white wine full bodied and fascinating, painted with a pallet of flowers and fruit, with not a hint of wood is very atypical. And then, the "Grand Vin des Verdots» 2006, more technical, in which the barrel aging is very marked grew in the mouth when drunk with the sturgeon. It revealed the fatness of the fish and then all its citrus dimension exploded." He states bluntly and honestly, "I am very proud of having won with a girl."
If sometimes chef and sommelier lacked boldness, both dared to invent, in the search for harmony: a fine balance between passion and professionalism.
A Feast of flavours
The prize-giving dinner, held at the Maison des Vins, was orchestrated by Vincent Arnould (MOG2007) head chef of Le Vieux Logis in Tr émolat and his brigade.
Guests enjoyed a series of eighteen dishes which featured truffles and foie gras: leek and potato cream with truffle foam; truffles on bread; sturgeon kebab and truffle mash, duck aiguillettes marinated with truffle; cream of truffled foie gras, truffled Brie de Meaux, rice pudding with white chocolate and truffles, truffled macaroons truffled banana ice cream.... and fine wines of Bergerac. Breathtaking! After all of which we can’t selfishly keep these exceptional addresses to ourselves, which from Perigueux to Tremolat, passing through Ribagnac and Conne-de-Labarde, will take you to meet remarkable women and men.
Revue BRA – March 2009
The Ragueneau Culinary Prize:
Les Verdots selon David Fourtout Bergerac Sec 2006
Journal Le Figaro – Rubrique « Le Vin et vous » - 2 July 2009
Pierre Bellemare et les vins des Verdots
Le Journal du Périgord – Rubrique Feuille de Vigne - September 2009
Les Verdots, The promised land
One might as well say it at the outset, David Fourtout’s vineyards are making their mark on the Bergerac region. Culture, environment and heritage all become focussed single mindedly on the vine.
Phylloxera having ravaged much of the Bordeaux vineyards, the Fourtout family of winemakers moved away in 1870 to settle in the Perigord where they constructed the present domaine. For four generations, through the passing years and successive seasons, the men of the Verdots estate have created a great terroir. The wines here are a product of long patience and passionate commitment.
David Fourtout embraces at the same time both tradition and inventiveness while he has been leading the estate towards a more successful strategy. Thus, he has been in the family winery since 1992 when he started working with his parents, taking the reins in 2001. And one must mention Jean Guy Fourtout, the winemaker’s father, who several years ago, started work on an enormous construction that he built in a masterly manner, digging the cellar down to the underground Verdots river, and then erecting on top of it a monumental building flanked by two towers. The vineyards spread all around the beautifully built winery The result is unique.
Alchemy or magic?
The thirty-five acres of vineyards are worked according to the principles of “lutte raisonnée”, using specific treatments adapted to the needs of the situation. This reduces chemical intervention to a minimum and relegates tradition chemical treatments to the past. As a visionary leaning towards viticultural techniques which respect the environment, the methods used by David Fourtout seek to maintain biodiversity and the ecosystem.
At harvest time, the fruit is selected plot by plot, depending on the soil, yield, grape variety, age of the vines, the sugar content and the weather. The crop is then transported to the winery whose design combines respect of the raw material with a modern infrastructure. A first alchemy takes place during fermentation in vats, and that is followed, in the case of some of the wines, by another transformation in barrels. For this, David Fourtout carries out a very special task:- assembly. Erudite and mysterious, the combination of grapes from different varieties is a skilful search for balance, complexity, harmony ... It gives the wine its color, flavour and music. Thus it is that Les Verdots wine grows little by little, forging its true identity in the perpetual twilight of the underground 600m2 dug from the living rock. After consulting the lunar calendar bottling, in the newly installed bottling room, will close these steps, after which the wine called “Les Verdots” can be tasted. Food lovers will enjoy it younger, while on the other hand, the connoisseur will prefer to lay it down. But let us not forget that we are all in turn food lovers and gourmets... Different wines express the essence of the marriage of grape and terroir:- Clos des Verdots, Chateau Les Tour des Verdots, Les Verdots Grands Vins and Le Vin selon David Fourtout.
Their quality comes from the different grape varieties that make up the harvest. Their choice is undoubtedly the fruit of long experience in which chance has given way to informed decision. From the planting of the young vine to the bottling of the finished wine, everythng is carried out on the estate. It is praiseworthy to note that today, the estate’s wines are found all round the globe.
Wine Tourism
The villages round the Cantonal capital, Issigeac, of which Conne-de-Labarde is one, have many magnificent medieval houses. To be more precise, we are talking about the triangle formed by Beaumont-en-Perigord, Villereal and Monbazillac. One way to discover the historical and cultural heritage and to approach the local lifestyle is to enter a winemaker’s cellar and taste the wines in their company. You’ll soon fall under their spell. If you prefer to go right to the heart of the matter a visit to the Verdots estate honours both those who visit and those who receive And to prolong this pleasurable moment why not take advantage of the two B&B rooms, named to celebrate local grape varieties, "Merlot" or "Muscadelle" ... David Fourtout has gathered around him women and men whose attention to the slightest detail celebrates the estate wines. Les Verdots feels like heaven on earth.
Magazine REGAL – September 2009
Château Les Tours des Verdots Côtes de Bergerac Rouge 2005 :
“This wine, built on fruit and ripe tannins, captivates with its elegance and balance. It will go perfectly with red meat and the heat of pepper.”
Cuisine et Vins de France – September 2009
Le Vin selon David Fourtout – Bergerac Sec 2006
“Just as in the great estates of Bordeaux, David Fourtout makes sure he does everythng necessary to make great wines. As a proof, consider this wine, “Le Vin”, an idiosyncratic dry white wine, full of breadth and body. Discreetly marked by oak, it finishes with notes of a spicy citrus compote. At present, it would be better to wait three years before serving it to accompany a creamy dish of chicken with mushrooms. Monbazillac 2005 Tours Verdots is another intriguing wine.”
In Vino Veritas – 27/10/2009
Monbazillac : A Nugget from Perigord : Les Verdots selon David Fourtout Monbazillac 2001
Journal Sud-Ouest Dimanche - December 2009
Gastronomic Trophy gourmand : awarding the “Dominique Lavigne” prize to David Fourtout
Journal Réussir le Périgord – December 2009
The “Dominique Lavigne” prize given to David Fourtout
2008 press comments…
Journal Sud-Ouest : 22 September 2008
Harvesting the whites
At the beginning of this week, harvesting began in the vineyards of Verdots in the village of Conne de Labarde, owned by David Fourtout, the fourth generation of winemakers here. The property consists of 120 hectares of which there are 35 hectares of vines: 13 hectares of white varieties and 22 hectares of red. A soil survey, carried out in 1998 using organic methods, helped to optimize the relationship between soil and vine and to give the perfect match when planting vineyards so as to obtain excellent wines.
Quality will be there. Every day for the last ten days, David Fourtout has been among the vines, tasting the grapes to gauge their ripeness. 2008 was very complicated for the vine: rain, frost on the 7th of April, moderate summer temperatures... but the month of September, thanks to the high temperatures and good weather, allowed the grapes for dry whites to be perfectly ready: there will not be a huge quantity, but it will certainly be of high quality.
The cast of pickers consisting of around twenty people from the area, even including a retired Breton from Rennes there to increase his knowledge of wine, is now hard at work. Hand picked., the bunches are put into a dumpster with a special conveyor belt that will deliver them in the de-stemmer, whence the grapes fall directly into the fermenting vat. This ensures that they have little mechanical shock, direct picking to the tank without the use of press or pump. The juice then ferments for about twenty-four hours and then passes into underground vats; gravity feeding avoids pumping and by treating the grapes gently, ensures that - with good vinification - the taste and quality of the wine is enhanced.
This work shows just how much passion and love David Fourtout has for all his wines. He is also proud to be one of the few to grow dry white wine grapes on 30 million year old lake limestone land. The subsoil is so old that the wine could justifiably be called flint wine. Chemical treatment of the vines is kept to an absolute minimum.
In order to practice environmentally friendly and sustainable viticulture and maintain the bio-diversity of the ecosystem and its surrounding vineyards, while at the same time creating wines with aromas faithfully reflecting the terroirs of the property, the harvest will then continue with other whites and reds as soon as they reach maturity, and wll end with the grapes for Monbazillac - also a major flagship of Les Verdots.
Le Monde spécial Vin, September 2008 :
Château Les Tours des Verdots Bergerac Sec 2007
Led by an enterprising and dynamic winemaker, this important estate makes a mid range Tours des Verdots cuvé. Made from old vines, it presents as well built and concentrated. This white wine is tasty and well balanced, and of good maturity.
Magazine Allemand VINUM
Special article on Bergerac « Zu Eintopf, aber hausgermacht ! »
Press Cuttings 2007…
LA
REVUE DU VIN DE France – June 2007 – Special
edition Pages
230 - 237
THE
SOUTH WEST, SPOTLIGHT THE WHITES
Vintage 2006 round up
Wines
marked between 15.5 and 17/20 Les
Verdots Red Cotes de Bergerac
Wood noticeably present but what a wine
in the mouth! The whole is full of flavour
with a tasty finish on civilised tannins.
Wines
marked between 17.5 and 20/20 Les
Verdots dry white Bergerac
Great fruit freshness, with notes of rice
flour. Provisional rating.
LA
REVUE DU VIN DE France – Mai 2007 Pages
52 - 63
LE
VIN 2005 Red Cotes de Bergerac – 17/20
David Fourtout did everything possible to
achieve the excellence of this wine. In this
very ripe vintage, a splendid nose of black
fruits and smoke, very slightly fat, supported
by well judged wood. The mouth is very harmonious,
with magnificent concentration. Silky smooth
yet firm tannins. A great success.
Les
Verdots 2004 Red Cotes de Bergerac – 15.5/20
The great growth of David Fourtout’s
estate. With 60% merlot and 35% of cabernet
sauvignon, which combines intensity and elegance.
Good concentration dominated by minerality.
The wood is discreet and well knit.
Les
Tours des Verdots 2003 Red Cotes de Bergerac –
15/20
This wine is straightforward with a balance
that is fresh and delicate for the year.
It does not show a hot and heavy character,
but on the contrary it has great fruit driven
freshness in the mouth. The wood remains
discreet, well adapted to the year, and this
preserves the general balance of the wine.
LA
REVUE DU VIN DE France – November 2006 – CELLAR
SPECIAL
Wines
for tomorrow
Clos des Verdots Red Bergerac 2005 – 17/20
Here, the use of the two cabernets and merlot
on a boulbène (sandy clay soil also
used in pottery) terroir gains our votes.
Vat aged.
Wines
for special events
Clos des Verdots Bergerac Dry White 2005 – 19/20
Made up from 75 % semillon, 10% sauvignon
blanc, 10% muscadelle and 5% sauvignon gris,
This wine comes from the Verdots estate,
run by David Fourtout and is the vat aged “young
brother”.
LA
REVUE DU VIN DE France – November 2006 – CELLAR
SPECIAL
LE SALON DES VIGNERONS INDEPENDANTS 2006
Les
Verdots Dry White Bergerac Cuvée
Excellence 2004 – 17/20
A real banker of a wine. Again very much
affected by new wood. Long and complex.
LA
REVUE DU VIN DE France – OCTOBER 2006
Selected *****
Clos
des Verdots Dry White Bergerac 2005
This wine, like the Chateau Les Tours des
Verdots, comes from the Verdots estate, run
by David Fourtout. This is the vat aged “little
brother” (Gascon, naturally). 75% semillon,
10% sauvignon blanc, 10% muscadelle and 5%
sauvignon gris on river bed sands.
LA
REVUE DU VIN DE France
The 2005 VINTAGE IN THE SOUTH WEST
BERGERAC
REGION : The South West, overflowing with very
affordable wines, is one of the best placed French
regions for value for money. The most expensive
wines justify their price by the intransigence
and care with which they are created. The very
few excessive prices are only to be found amongst
a small number of garage wines in the Cahors
area.
Tours
des Verdots red Cotes de Bergerac 2005
Elegant wood, fine aromatic expressiveness.
Tours
des Verdots Monbazillac 2005
Nose closed in, with preserved citrus fruit
on the mouth.
LA
REVUE DU VIN DE France
tasting Notes
Grand
Vin Les Verdots Monbazillac 2001
The robe has a golden tint. The intense nose
shows deep aromas of exotic fruit with hints
of wood. Elegant, very long, the mouth shows
good sweetness with a little volatile acidity,
and a very powerful finish. This great wine,
which has been very well named, is right at the
dawn of a brilliant career.
L’AMATEURS
DE CIGARES (Cigar Lovers) – Talking of
Wine and spirits – Page 63
LES
VERDOTS – David Fourtout – 24560 Conne-de-Labarde
The
most ambitious of the young vignerons of the
area, is progressively replanting a large estate
with a potential of eighty six hectares (>200
acres). Bergerac wines are harvested on a good
third of this area and are captivating more and
more people by their aromatic generosity, both
for the reds and for the whites.
The wines with the name “Tours
des Verdots” are
easily among the best in their appellations,
but some even more recherche selections under
the name of “Wine according to David
Fourtout” have raised the bar even higher,
especially for the whites, for the whole South
West. The incomparable aromatic charm of the
Muscadelle grape, gathered at perfect ripeness
give them an unforgettable aromatic cachet,
and quite frankly, I can’t think of anything
from the neighbouring department of the Gironde
(Bordeaux) to rival the 2001 and 2002 from
this estate.
DEMOCRATE
(The Democrat Magazine)
David FOURTOUT under the vines, a river flows...
A
meeting with David Fourtout, elected best winemaker
of the year at the Bergerac show/exhibition.
The man, in making sure that his vines are
in the closest possible harmony with the terroir,
is innovative and a ground breaker.
If one
were to introduce oneself claiming the name
of Fourtout, living in a village called “Conne
de Labarde and producing a wine under the “Verdots” name,
there’s a good chance that one would
be treated with some suspicion. And yet...
and yet this is well and truly the case and
the 35 year old David Fourtout does so with
a certain malicious pleasure. If it is amusing
to order a “Verdots” wine in a
restaurant and see a bottle arrive, the wine
itself is no joke at all. On the contrary,
David Fourtout is a perfectionist. His wines
have been admired, as he was elected winemaker
of the year, and his wines obtained many medals
at the last Bergerac exhibition/fair (gold
medal for dry white Bergerac 2003, red Bergerac
2003 and for Monbazillac 2002),
He is equally
one of the special choices of the Hachette
guide 2005. A surprising career for someone
who was originally destined to be a livestock
farmer. “It’s the
meeting I had with the technical director of
Ch Mouton Rothschild that inspired me to take
up winemaking. We’re on a plateau that’s
well aligned to the sun here, and with poor
soils spread over three communes, those of
Conne-de-Labarde, Colombier et Saint-Nexans.” The
somewhat surprising name of “Verdots” comes
from the stream that runs under the vines and
one can see in the cellars, and thus it was
taken by the winemaker’s father for his
products.
Invest and innovate.
David Fourtout is a stickler for detail, and
for the care which makes the difference,
regularly re-invests so that the wine can
be as good as possible.
From 1994 to 2003,
helped by his father, he built an imposing
building of 700 square metres, to welcome visitors
on the ground floor, and under which were created
the cellars . He took over control of the business
in 2002.
He was one of the first to carry out
a detailed terroir analysis of his land since
1998. This has led to the removal of vines
from one hillside and planting on another,
in order to be as much in harmony with his
land as possible.
David Fourtout says he’s
in favour of the new planting densities. “You
must plant at 6,500 vines per hectare, it’s
the only way to sell. It has to be good. Nowadays
there’s so much wine on sale that there’s
no room for mediocrity.” says the person
who is administrator for the Union of Bergerac
wines. “I think of myself as somewhat
like a chef. If the basic ingredients are no
good , and the cooking methods are not well
chosen, you can’t make good quality products.”
The
man is modern, innovative and has managed his
business so well that in 12 years it has grown
from having one employee to 6. “There
are always three or four people among the vines.
You have to take great care over them because
even if oenology has created many products,
it still has its limits. Faced with so many
different activities, how should one define
the profession “winemaker”? “It
has become a complex job, he has to be an agronomist
in that he must master the idea of terroir
and know what grows there naturally. He must
be a cellarmaster, a salesman, a manager and
an organiser. In short... he’s like an
orchestral conductor”
CUISINE ET VINS DE FRANCE
September – October 2006 Special number
THE SOUTH WEST “SWIFTER, HIGHER, STRONGER”
Editor’s
Choice - Les Verdots Red Cotes de Bergerac
2004 –
16/20
In charge of the Verdots Estate, David Fourtout
loves making wine, but he also knows how to market
them with enthusiasm. “Les Verdots” are
the top wines of a well structured range of three
wine styles. This is a successful marriage of
power and elegance and it is well worthy of the
title of “Great Wine” found on the
label. With their unbeatable value for money,
the “Clos des Verdots” in both red
and rosé are perfect for more daily pleasures.
CUISINE ET VINS
DE FRANCE
“A dish and a wine” - Madras style
lamb chops in puff pastry
Clos
des Verdots Red COTES DE BERGERAC 2000
The Clos des Verdots has a well structured
and defined attack, solid and very well marked
which will respect the spices of the dish.
But the beauty of the 2000 vintage lies in
the fruit, accompanied by a finish with delicious
hints of liquorice. This is a virile wine,
but one which does not hide it’s tenderness
for long - to the satisfaction of the lamb!
Les
Verdots BERGERAC DRY WHITE 2002
If the South-West seems to be the new promised
land for whites, David Fourtout is not dragging
his feet. On the contrary, he’s one of
the people spearheading this revolution, started
by this estate several years ago. His white “Grand
Vin” 2002 is beautifully fat, showing a
truly exotic character with scents of lychee
and of tisane, augmented by subtle wood. Another
wine worth discovering is “Le Vin selon
David Fourtout” 2002, which is a botrytised
muscadelle. A wine way outside the common mould.
CUISINE ET
VINS DE FRANCE
With their unbeatable
value for money, the “Clos des Verdots” in
both red and rosé are perfect for more
daily pleasures.
LE JOURNAL DU PERIGORD – April
2005
WE FELL FOR CHATEAU LES VERDOTS
At the end of
the 19th century, phylloxera forced the Fourtout
family to leave St Emilion. Some headed North,
while Augustin chose to “emigrate” to
Conne-de-Labarde. It is there that his great
grandson makes the best of wines.
For a little over a century, the Fourtouts have
been living on a wide windy plateau which looks
out over the Bergerac plain. First of all Augustin,
then subsequently Gaston and Jean-Guy worked
this very special terrain. Nowadays it’s
David’s turn. “A little over ten
years ago we were still raising and fattening
calves and we still had around 130 head of cattle.
My father also made some wine, but it was certainly
not his main activity From 1970, he decided to
vinify and bottle the wine on the estate. As
for me, I remembered the dreadful work in the
vineyard, (which filled most of his school holidays)
, so when I had to choose a profession, I plumped
for that of cattle raising, without any hesitation.” David’s
studies were orientated towards that end, and
at the appropriate moment he created his outline
planning application and grant demands, and received
them. However all this didn’t take into
account destiny which was pushing him in quite
another direction. All it needed was a fateful
meeting. His first barrels
In 1992, David, during
a village festival, happened to chat to Bertrand Bourdil. This native of Bergerac,
who returns from time to time to his birthplace, was technical director of Ch
Mouton Rothschild. Bernard invited David to take a little visit of discovery
to the vineyards of Bordeaux, and let him taste a few Grand Crus. “It was a revelation, I adored that day which both fulfilled
me and troubled me. Following that taste of luxury, Bertrand suggested I buy
a few barrels off him and I did, and aged my father’s1991 vintage in
them. With that I changed track completely. There was time, and so we swapped
our cattle for wine.” David was soon encouraged, as the 1991 Chateau “Les
Tours des Verdots” was awarded a gold medal at the general agricultural
competition, while the “Clos des Verdots” got the bronze. The die
was cast and the adventure began.
“Today we have thirty five hectares (84 acres) under vines, but we started
with only 12 (29 acres). It was Jean-Marc Dournel who has helped us ever since.
We invested heavily in our infrastructures and my father started to dig out
the barrel cellars. These works took ten years, and he worked like a slave,
digging into the mother rock and finishing by exposing the underground river
which acts as an extraordinarily effective natural air conditioning system,
bringing coolness and humidity to the cellars. For my part, empirically at
first, I tried to map out the terroirs of the estate. We observed the results,
and isolated the parcel of old vines from which we have made the “ Grand
cuvée des Verdots” since 1995.
David Fourtout really understands the absolute necessity of carrying out a
detailed cartography and encourages the other wine makers to do the same. “This
methodology effectively allows one to determine the possibilities of some terroirs,
and get the best from them,” This work of improvement is now finished
in the Bergerac region, and will not fail to show results in the future. Precision work
The cartography David Fourtout
describes rapidly showed up the special features of the terroir which he works. “Conne de Labarde and Saint Cernin de
Labarde possess a soil that is really different:- it consists of undulating
layers of chalk deposited at the edge of a lake. In fact you find deposits
of flint in the chalk, which give good acidity and balance not only to our
whites but also our reds. We are working on the blending of the different terroirs
of the property and using them to complement each other. The raw material is
vital. The work of the winery can only be to accept the challenge of maintaining
the potential of the grapes, and absolutely cannot convert a bad grape into
a good one. More importantly, one has to take care not to waste the potential
of good raw material, and that’s a full time job.
“At Les Verdots, harvesting is done by machine for the traditional wines
and by hand for the top wines. The grapes are treated gently: the machine,
when we use it, gathers the grapes by shaking them into small baskets which
it lifts and empties into containers. The harvest is transported on conveyor
belts before being meticulously sorted.”
The least one can say is that
David Fourtout has given himself the means to fulfil his ambitions. In 2000
he abandoned the old family cellars in the village and made a new winery on
the plateau. A hall equipped with frustroconical vats complete with traps at
the top to allow pigeage, and underground vats to enable gravity feed to be
used. “We also have a thermostatic control system,
which allows each vat to be controlled individually. Two barrel vinification
halls are kept at the right temperatures, 12 to 13°C (54 to 56°F) for
the whites and 16 to 17°C (61 to 62°F for the reds)” David explains. “This
may seem high, but I try to delay malo-lactic fermentation. The wines are checked
every day.” The results are there.
David Fourtout has every right to be proud. His hard work, and its precision,
that some might call manic, show results. Without ostentation, the young winemaker
and his team accumulate one success after another and make a wine which is
in their image. You only have to read the press. Speaking of the 2001 sweet
Côte de Bergerac, this is what Saveur magazine had to say “Sensational
cote de Bergerac “l’Excellence”! Frankly liquoreux, utterly
charming, underpinned by finely developed noble rot, it carries whoever drinks
it to heights never hitherto attained in this appellation. An editor’s
favourite to be kept for 10 to 15 years.” The red Clos des Verdots 2000
is acclaimed in similar terms by “Cuisine et Vins de France”:-“The
Clos des Verdots has a well structured and defined attack, solid and very well
marked which will complement the spiciness of the dish.
But the beauty of the 2000 vintage lies in the fruit, accompanied by a finish
with delicious hints of liquorice. This is a virile wine, but one which does
not hide its tenderness for long.”David continues”When it comes
to “Le Vin” of the extraordinary 2003 vintage, it was vinified
directly in 225 litre barrels and we collected the grapes from the part of
the vineyard we call ‘the area for great wines’. One knows that
2003 was very different. We chose north facing grapes with no sign of being
burnt. I seek to combine a good attack, mouth filling character, and length.
The wines must be concentrated, soft with silky tannins. Wood is interesting
for the micro-oxygenation that it allows. It dissolves the tannins, but the
wine must be there before the wood.
I don’t like the taste of wood to be too obvious. What I like in Burgundy
barrels is that they are precisely that - they respect the fruit.” and
when you ask David Fourtout about which other peoples’ wines he likes,
he replies. “When they send a shiver down my spine.”
3 ETOILES – AUTUMN
2006 – Bergerac Wines
VIGNOBLE DES VERDOTS
Les Verdots Red Cotes de Bergerac Rouge
The garnet robe catches the eye, the nose is
fruity, mixing red fruits and prunes with hints
of toast. The fruit perfumes are very elegant.
The mouth is full and shows plenty of matter
with integrated wood. Elegant finish. A very
high class wine.
“The
Excellence of the Chateau des Verdots” 2002
Black with violet hints, complex fruit nose,
attractively wooded, hints of woodland fruit.
Beautifully rich on the mouth, with a powerful
tannic structure. Fresh fruits give an attack
which invites further tasting. The tannins are
remarkably supple. This is a harmonious and agreeable
wine of very great elegance.
LE NOUVEL OBSERVATEUR
WE LIKE WINE FROM .... DAVID FOURTOUT (The water and the slopes...)
“I want
water and wine, stone and grape, I want water
in your hands and wine when I feel like it” sings
Vanessa Paradis. It’s hardly likely that
she knows David Fourtout’s new winery.
And yet these words seem dedicated to this mysterious
place, crossed by an underground river. In the
shadows, the barrels slumber lulled by the sounds
of running water and moistened by the beneficial
humidity of the air. When you see this young
father bounding from barrel to barrel you can’t
help thinking of Luc de Conti for the spirit
of the wines he wants to achieve, and of Alain
Brumont in his commercial ambitions. From the
family estates, situated on the slopes of Bergerac,
he produces the ranges Tour or Clos des Verdots,
reds and whites that are precise, and which ally
charm and character. After a delicious white
wine made from very ripe late harvested muscadelle
grapes, the top range, modestly called “The
Wine” will contain a sumptuous 2003 red,
from Cabernet and Merlot, available in 2005.
(A.G.). Clos des
Verdots Sweet white Cotes de Bergerac 2002
Semillon and muscadelle were harvested very ripe, and carefully pressed. This
wine expresses the finesse of the grape juice that made it, and its sweetness
which does not hide bitterness. Honeyed, apricot flavoured, it remains well balanced
on its fruit. Delightful as an aperitif. Bergerac Dry
White Le Vin 2002.
Rounded, the mouth of this predominantly muscadelle based barrel fermented white
wine reminds one of certain very old grenaches, but with more freshness and aromas.
To be drunk with wild Scottish smoked salmon.
SAVEURS - Our Editor’s
choice
Les
Verdots Sweet white Cotes de Bergerac 2001
Sensational cote de Bergerac “l’Excellence”!
Frankly liquoreux, utterly charming, underpinned
by finely developed noble rot, it carries whoever
drinks it to heights never hitherto attained
in this appellation. Golden robe, with mineral
touches and brambly hints on the nose, a majestic
honeyed texture dominated by roundness, though
instants of surprising freshness break through.
Very expressive and long, this is a wine which
one could begin to decant in 5 years’ time.
An editor’s favourite which will keep for
10 to 15 years. With Foie gras, naturally, or
on its own as an aperitif.
LE MONDE
2006 Wine Guide
Grand
Vin Les Verdots Red Cotes de Bergerac Rouge
2004
The finesse of the tannins is remarkable, and
the fruit is gorgeous.
VITI – May
2006
In 1995, David
Fourtout went over to “les travaux en vert” and
manual harvesting for his whites and his top
reds. He dug up the old parcels of vines, and
replanted on better terroirs. In 2002 he was
awarded the title of “Best winemaker of
the year” for the South west, by Revue
des Vins de France. Some of the finest restaurants,
such as the Ritz in Paris, have chosen him for
their wine lists.
LE MONDE – WINE
SPECIAL 2006
Chateau
Les Tours des Verdots White dry Bergerac 2005
In this very ripe year this wine has a straight
line spicy finish. With good length, it has been
well vinified. It is a good introduction to modern
Bergerac whites thanks to its straight-forward
taste.
REGAL – October
2005
The wines come
in three ranges and enhance all the facets of
the Bergerac and Monbazillac Appellations. From
fruit driven wines to the most sophisticated “winemaker’s” wines.
LES
VERDOTS ESTATE
Bergerac Wines
Found
on the oldest maps of Perigord, the estate,
called "Verdeau" at the time
is mentioned by Edward Feret, in his 1903
book.